Just across the border: Exploring the French-Catalan Pyrenees

The Haut Vallespir is a fantastic place for a week(end) getaway. You can ride off-road around the French-Catalan Pyrenees for what feels like hundreds of kilometers without encountering anyone; simply gravel heaven. At less than a two-hour drive from Girona, Nafent bunny-hopped across the border to explore the scene.

Based near Arles-sur-Tech, Chris from Pyrenees Cycling Club informs the Nafent crew about one of the three rides we plan to do over a long weekend. The Brit is a passionate cyclist, experienced in all disciplines, and knows the area inside out just like a local postman. “Today’s ride is 50% gravel, 50% paved and shows off the variety of our region. We will see herds of deer, pass abandoned mining villages and look across the valley to el Canigó, the sacred Catalan mountain,” Chris explains.

Chris and his partner Vicky moved to the Pyrenees-Orientales in 2018. They had been visiting the Vallespir region for nearly twenty years beforehand and finally decided to follow their dream of running their own business in the area. Their renovated farmhouse, close to the village of Arles-sur-Tech, is simply phenomenal, with great home cooking and a pool to cooldown in. The two enthusiastic cyclists love bringing their guests to explore the Haut Vallespir for many reasons, and the silence on the road is only one of them.

There is a 15 kilometers gravel descent from the Coll del Noell where we take it easy, both to enjoy the views across to the border and to take it easy on our bikes in the rough sections. If we were that unlucky, it is reassuring to know that Chris himself is a bike mechanic, who could save you if necessary.

Pyrenees CC’s favorite route starts with an 8km road climb, before our tires hit gravel. During the climb, we encounter only two cars and a handful of fellow cyclists, confirming Chris’ view that this area is the best cycling spot that few people have heard of. We then spin along a flat gravel road through the abandoned mines of Fontanils.

Chris’ favorite section comes next. To our right is the French Catalan border, and we are immersed in nature, riding past chestnut trees, wild mushrooms and with eagles soaring above. The views along the way are as pleasant as the gradient. From the ridge you can see all the way to Roses and the Costa Brava. Chris saved us a special surprise for the end of the ride, a twisting road clinging to the sides of the Mondony gorge.

Aside from gravel cycling, the terrain in France’s most southerly valley is excellent for road riding and mountain biking, making a return to Chris and Vicky’s a tempting idea. So much riding on offer in such a wonderful setting. In conclusion, the Pyrenees-Orientales are very much worth a visit.

This story is part of Nafent Magazine volume 12. Read the full story in our digital or paper magazine. Go to our webshop to get yours.